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Pearls rank among the most popular gems in the world. With a serene beauty, they make perfect complements to flashier gems. Yet, they also possess an elegance that can shine alone. Of course, their distinctive appearance and watery origins have inspired pearl symbolism and lore for centuries.
Pearls are organic gemstones that are formed by shelled molluscs; mainly bivalved oysters and mussels. Pearls are made up of nacre (mother-of-pearl) which is mostly aragonite (calcium carbonate) and conchiolin (complex proteins that form mollusc shells). The aragonite microcrystals build up around an irritant. The name "pearl" is said to have originated from the Middle English word "perle", which in turn came from the Latin word "perna", meaning "leg", thought to be due to the ham-leg shape of the bivalve mollusc.
Natural pearls are extremely rare, incredibly expensive and typically small. Therefore people have developed ways to culture pearls, so that these beautiful gemstones can be enjoyed by many. In cultured pearls, some tissue or a mother-of-pearl bead is introduced into the mollusc shell.
The oldest recorded reference to pearls in history is the 7,500 year-old "Umm Al Quwain Pearl", which was found in a grave in a place that is now known as the UAE. Before pearls were cultured by man, they were harvested from the Persian Gulf, Sri Lankan waters, fresh water sources in China and the rivers of Europe. Later, Christopher Columbus discovered pearls in South America. When these natural pearls were almost depleted in the early twentieth century, the Chinese and Japanese began to culture pearls and the rest is history. Nowadays, pearls remain a treasured adornment and are cultured all around the world.
Few gems are as varied in shape and color as pearls. Thus, it’s not surprising that pearls of colors other than white have also inspired legends.
According to Polynesian lore, the god Lono came down on a rainbow to a princess, carrying black pearls with him as gifts. The black pearls, with their beautiful iridescence, were imbued with the colors of the rainbow.
Traditionally, the Chinese love golden pearls, believing they bring prosperity and luck. Chinese artworks often depict dragons holding golden pearls in their mouths or claws.
Natural river pearls are found in Asia, Europe and North America. Due to the immaculate beauty and mesmerizing qualities of pearls, the Aztecs and Mayans believed they held magical powers; whilst in ancient Rome only rulers were deemed important enough to wear them.
The Native Americans were the first to discover the freshwater pearls of the Mississippi, found in unionid mussels, as well as American mother of pearl, found along the South Atlantic Coast. The Native Americans took pride in their pearl harvesting, and the pearl became a symbol of tremendous beauty within their culture, not only as a form of ornamentation, which had a strong influence on their fashion and customs, but also as a reliable form of tender and trade.
Pearls are found and cultured in waters all over the world. Natural sea pearls are found in Australia, Japan, Central America, the Persian Gulf, the Gulf of Manaar (between India and Sri Lanka), the coast of Madagascar, Burma (Myanmar), the Philippines, the South Pacific Islands (including Tahiti and Fiji) and South America.
Cultured seawater pearl sources include Southeast Asia (such as Indonesia and the Philippines), Australia, China, French Polynesia, Japan, South Pacific Islands (including Tahiti and Fiji) and the Philippines.
Cultured freshwater pearl sources include China and Japan.
Pearls, especially freshwater varieties, can occur in varied and unusual but beautiful shapes. However, soft white lustrous orbs, more commonly found among saltwater pearls, have become an idealized standard. Of course, this shape strongly evokes the Moon.
Not surprisingly, many cultures have made lunar associations with pearls. These connections are further reinforced by the Moon’s association with the watery domain where pearls are born.
There are many superstitions attached to pearls, such as the idea that pearls represent tears and should not be given as a gift, an engagement ring, or worn by a bride on her wedding day, lest they bring sadness. Conversely, others believe that pearls are perfect for brides because they represent purity, integrity and loyalty. In ancient China, people believed that pearls provided protection from fire and dragons.
Furthermore, pearls are thought to be effective in love potions and it is believed by some that those who sleep with a pearl under their pillow will be blessed with children. Whilst pearl superstitions and folklore vary greatly, pearls are widely considered to encourage good health and wealth. Physically, pearls are said to help to balance the hormones, and relieve digestive disorders and allergies. Pearls are the birthstone for those born in June and are also used to commemorate the third and thirtieth anniversaries.
Although pearls are relatively soft, with a Mohs hardness of 2.5 to 4.5, they are extremely compact, which makes them durable and resistant to being crushed. Do not expose pearls to harsh chemicals such as household cleaning fluid or acid. It is a good idea to take off pearl jewellery first and put them on last when dressing, so that these precious gems are not sprayed with perfume or hairspray. If pearls are worn as bracelets or rings, they should be limited to occasional wear, to minimize scratches.
Gently wipe them with a soft cloth after they are removed. This will preserve the lustre of your pearls, which can be dulled by perspiration. To clean your pearls, use a mild soap and mineral water or distilled water. Tap water often contains chemicals such as chlorine, which can damage pearls. Do not use brushes, ultrasonic cleaners or steamers, which can cause damage.
If pearls are stored in a safety deposit box, a glass of water should be placed with them to prevent them from drying out and developing surface fractures. Store pearls separately from other gemstones to prevent scratches, and do not store pearls in direct sunlight, which can cause yellowing. Pearls should be kept away from heat, which can cause surface fractures.
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Sources:
Pearl Symbolism and Legends - International Gem Society
Pearl Information - The lustrous and glossy organic gemstone (gemselect.com)
